We are starting this series of articles with a focus on the case, as well as recent technical drawings and developments. Indeed, following your many comments regarding the movement and the case thickness, we felt it was fitting to begin the Focus series with these aspects.
In upcoming updates, we will also cover other components of the watch. An article on the dial and another on the finishes of the SW288 caliber are already in progress. Feel free to share any topics you would like to see covered in future Focus articles.
- THE FIRST PHASE OF PROTOTYPING
SW288-1 automatic
As with our first ORIGINE series, we envisioned the ORION series around the SW288-1a automatic movement. This choice was driven by community demand, particularly from collectors who own watch winders and wish to preserve their moon phase complication alongside the date.
The initial prototypes of the cases were developed accordingly, featuring a closed case back with a dedicated engraving. This engraving serves to distinguish the new Orion series from its predecessor while adding a touch of modernity. Four initial studies and prototypes were conducted based on the SW288-1A movement, with the latest presented below.
These latter take up different forms of case backs, with a play on the finishes (brushed / polished). Above all, the work is focused on the arbitration between the thickness of the case back , its water resistance that we wanted to increase to 10 ATM, and the possibility of obtaining a thicker engraving. To achieve a relief engraving, the addition of a steel or aluminum plate on the back of the case proved necessary - in order to have a certain margin of maneuver on the finishes, while maintaining the water resistance.
Also, tests were carried out on a flat sapphire crystal (1) (2) (3) and a double-domed sapphire crystal (4). Designed at 35° to remain invisible to the naked eye, the double dome offers a very slight curvature and preserves the dress appearance of the watch. Without a magnifying effect, it highlights its refractive properties and reduces light capture when worn.
These first studies - the case of which you can still find in many Youtube reviews carried out in the summer of 2024 - concluded that the model needed to be refined , to improve its comfort when worn. These first prototypes also opened up on the dial, the bezel, and the hands. These elements will be covered in a future news item, including the construction of the dial and design developments.
- LAST PHASE OF PROTOTYPING
SW288-1m manual
On the first prototypes, the total thickness of the model ranged between 12.55 and 13.35 mm , depending on the construction of the case back. This total height is directly linked to the design choices of the series, including a stepped dial (necessarily higher), a double-domed glass, and a moon disk whose thickness was increased to 0.30 mm (to be able to work the Luminova).
The first prototyping phase already took this extra thickness into account, with a case split into two parts: a flat body, and a back in successive stages. This choice made it possible to visually refine the lines, and to camouflage the case back in the hollow of the wrist. The case body thus offered a central part that represented 6.35/13.05, or 48% of the total height. By creating successive bevels, the visible part was brought to a height of 10.80 mm, or 58% of the height.
On the new prototypes, there is no longer any question of visible or total part. The body of the case represents 66% of the total and visible height, and brings a finesse to the whole.
If the stepped construction limited the perceived height of the first versions, the comfort on the wrist was directly affected. The choice was therefore to completely redesign the case around the SW288-1m caliber, with manual winding.
New designs and tests are then carried out with the workshops, around four requirements: maintain a total height of less than 11.00 mm, maintain 10 ATM, raise the hand, and offer a double-domed sapphire crystal.
In view of the newfound finesse, the choice was also made to open the case back , and to work on the bridge of the SW288-1m caliber (which will be covered in a future article). The back offers a flat brushed part as well as a very fine polished bevel that overlooks the engraving. This return offers a discreet reminder of the polished lines of the case body, the horns and the bezel. The glass chosen is a flat sapphire crystal, anti-reflective treated.
- FOCUS
Comparative
A visual comparison allows us to measure the changes, particularly in thickness and finishes, made. These thus mark the transition from the SW288-1a to the SW288-1m.
A final prototyping phase, initiated at the beginning of September 2024, is currently being carried out with the workshops. These final series prototypes will allow us to test the entire production process once again, and to validate each part before series machining. We will send you the visuals shortly!
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